Burberry

Burberry is a UK and United States-based outfitter, manufacturing clothing and other apparel. Its distinctive check pattern has become one of its most widely copied trademarks. The company has branded stores and franchises around the world, and also sells through concessions in third party stores. It also runs a catalogue business and has a fragrance line. Both HM Queen Elizabeth and HRH The Prince of Wales have granted the company Royal Warrants. Today, Burberry's trademark products are its fashionable handbags and exclusive fragrances. The current Design Director is Christopher Bailey.

Early years

Burberry was founded in 1856 when 21-year-old Thomas Burberry, a former draper's apprentice, opened his own store in Basingstoke, Hampshire. By 1870 the business had established itself by focusing on the development of outdoors attire. In 1880 Thomas Burberry invented gabardine, a hardwearing, water-resistant, yet breathable fabric, in which the yarn is waterproofed before weaving. Gabardine was patented in 1888.

In 1891 Thomas Burberry opened an emporium in the Haymarket, London, which still stands today. In 1904, the Burberry Equestrian Knight Logo was developed containing the Latin word "Prorsum" meaning forwards and registered as a trademark. In 1911 they also became the outfitters for Roald Amundsen, the first man to reach the South Pole, and Ernest Shackleton, who lead a 1914 expedition to cross Antarctica.

In 1914 Burberry was commissioned by the War Office to adapt its officer's coat, to suit the conditions of British contemporary warfare, resulting in the modern day "trench coat". After the war, the trench coat became popular with civilians. The iconic Burberry check was created in the 1920's and used as a lining in its trench coats. Over the years, it has been popularized by Humphrey Bogart in Casablanca, Peter Sellers in the Pink Panther films, and Audrey Hepburn in Breakfast at Tiffany's.

Burberry also specially designed aviation garments. A. E. Clouston and Mrs Betsy Kirby Green made the fastest flying time to Cape Town from London in 1937 and were sponsored by Burberry.

The Burberry Check

The trench, black, white and red pattern known as the 'Burberry check' was first used as a lining for their trenchcoat in 1924. It wasn't until as late as 1967 that the Burberry Check, now a registered trademark, was widely used on its own for items including umbrellas, scarves and luggage.

UK image problems and revitalisation

During the 1970s, the brand became popular with the British football casual cult, leading to it to being associated with chavs, hooligans and members of football firms by the 1990s. The brand became something of a national joke, particularly when actress Danniella Westbrook was photographed with her young daughter wearing matching Burberry outfits. South Wales police ran a drive against anti-social behaviour under the name Operation Burberry[1], and Burberry admit that "Burberry is now synonymous with Chavs and thugs"[2]

With the entry of a New Yorker, Rose Marie Bravo, as Chief Executive Officer in 1997, it was hoped the brand would be revitalised [3]. She brought in Kate Moss to star in an advertising campaign, along with many new designs and products. The Burberry check baseball cap was discontinued by the company in 2004. However, the company still blamed weak Christmas 2004 sales in the UK on its chav image ^[1].

Closure of Treorchy factory

In September 2006 Burberry announced the closure in March 2007 of their factory in Treorchy, South Wales, moving 310 jobs to Hong Kong, China and mainland China. The firm states that the Treorchy plant is "not commercially viable" despite announcing a 22% increase in profits in January 2007. The extremely unpopular decision has resulted in protests by workers outside the Burberry flagship stores in London, under the banner "Keep Burberry British". The campaign, supported by local Welsh Assembly Member Leighton Andrews and Jill Evans MEP has attracted international press coverage and is supported by celebrities from the world of cinema, music and sport including: Prince Charles ^[2], Tom Jones ^[3], Sir Alex Ferguson ^[4], Ioan Gruffudd (the international face of Burberry), Emma Thompson, Rhys Ifans, Bryn Terfel, The Automatic, Tanni Grey-Thompson, Irvine Welsh, Michael Sheen and Steve Jones (presenter). The PR disaster reached a new stage when local MP Chris Bryant made a motion on the 23rd January 2007 in Parliament to remove Burberry's Royal Warrant if it persists in its intention to move these jobs offshore. The debate lasted 23 minutes and the debate can be read here [4].

The campaign has gone global with co-ordinated protests against the closure, were held in London, Paris, New York, Chicago, Strasbourg and Las Vegas. [5]

Corporate history

Burberry was an independent company until 1955, when it was bought by Great Universal Stores (GUS), owners of UK High street retailers Argos and Homebase. Beginning in 2000, there were rumours of GUS releasing Burberry as an independent company. ^[5] But it was not until December, 2005, when Burberry was spun-off as the Burberry Group. Today, Burberry trades on the London Stock Exchange under the ticker symbol BRBY.

See also

• Chav
• Christopher Bailey (fashion designer)

References

1. ^ "Burberry admits chav effect checked sales over Christmas", The Daily Telegraph, 2005-01-13.
2. ^ Prince Charles joins rebellion over Burberry move to China. Times Online (2006-11-26).
3. ^ Tom Jones joins Burberry campaign. BBC News (2007-01-22).
4. ^ Sir Alex on-side in 'Keep Burberry open' campaign. ICWales (2007-01-27).
5. ^ Burberry earns independence. BBC News (2000-11-30).

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